From October to the end of April you will not come here, because the ferry is starting to run from May. It arrives to Mykines twice a day, but only when the ocean is flat like a mirror. This year it happened only a few times. Tourists have to reckon with the fact that they can get stuck in this tiny piece of land in the middle of the Atlantic. Are you taking a risk?
We have dreamed about Mykines (in Faroese this name is pronounced “mytshines”) since we even started thinking about traveling to the Faroe Islands. For a simple reason. Most tourist folders have a photograph of this island on the cover. The sheep nibble over the flat, lush, green, grassy cliffs. In the background, spectacular steep walls falling straight into the ocean.
In addition, it is a puffin paradise, and the birds are now laying eggs in the local meadows. Just in case we booked ferry tickets for the first morning of our trip. The risk was considerable, because the only sure thing in the weather in the Faroe Islands is its unpredictability. And on the previous day, the evening ferry – the one who takes back tourists brought in the morning – could not get to the island because of the high waves. Most of the cruises were canceled in May this year. Well, whoever does not risk, he does not drink champagne.
We made a decision and at ten o’clock we boarded a small boat, which after an hour entered the microscopic harbour carved in the rock, sheltered from the wrath of the ocean with only two concrete breakwaters.
The only town on the island is ten minutes of climbing to the top of the cliff away. Mykines is the westernmost island of the archipelago and has an area of ten square kilometers. Outside the tourist season, only 10 people live here, but the village has a total of 40 houses, because over half a century ago has almost 200 people inhabitants – mainly fishermen and employees serving a lighthouse important for shipping.
Today, in the age of satellite navigation, now it is only a tourist attraction. At the end of the 19th century, a school and a church were erected in the village of Mykines. In front of the church is today a guesthouse for tourists who are stuck on the island because of bad weather. We hope that the aura will be kind to us. We set off for a two-kilometer walk to the lighthouse.